Bountiful BackYard

small livestock, muscovy ducks, black copper maran chickens, silver fox rabbits, composting worms, mealworms

  • **Ingredients:**

      * **Grains:** 4 cups of mixed whole grains. A good blend includes oats, corn, wheat, and barley.

      * **Seeds:** 1 cup of black oil sunflower seeds, flax seeds, or other bird-friendly seeds.

      * **Protein Source:** 1 cup of a protein source like dried mealworms, Grubblies, or even crumbled hard-boiled eggs for extra protein.

      * **Binder:** 1 cup of a binder such as unsweetened applesauce, mashed banana, or pureed pumpkin. You might need a little more depending on the consistency.

      * **Fat:** ½ cup of melted coconut oil or lard (animal fat).

      * **Calcium Source:** ½ cup of crushed oyster shells or finely crushed eggshells for calcium.

      * **Grit:** ¼ cup of poultry grit (insoluble grit) to aid digestion.

      * **Optional Add-ins:**

          * ¼ cup of dried herbs (oregano, thyme, parsley) for immune support.

          * ¼ cup of dried cranberries or raisins for a treat.

    **Equipment:**

      * Large mixing bowl

      * Sturdy spoon or spatula

      * Mold (a square or rectangular baking pan, a plastic container, or even a cardboard box lined with parchment paper)

      * Parchment paper

    **Instructions:**

    1.  **Prepare your mold:** Line your chosen mold with parchment paper, leaving some overhang on the sides. This will make it easier to remove the flock block once it’s set.

    2.  **Combine dry ingredients:** In the large mixing bowl, thoroughly mix together the grains, seeds, protein source, calcium source, and grit. If you’re using dried herbs or fruits, add them now as well.

    3.  **Add wet ingredients:** In a separate small bowl, combine your chosen binder (applesauce, mashed banana, or pumpkin puree) with the melted coconut oil or lard. Mix until well combined.

    4.  **Mix wet and dry:** Pour the wet ingredient mixture into the dry ingredients. Mix everything very thoroughly until all the dry ingredients are evenly coated and the mixture is well combined. It should be quite stiff and clumpy.

    5.  **Press into mold:** Transfer the mixture into your prepared mold. Press it down *very firmly* and evenly. The firmer you press, the more solid and durable your flock block will be. Use the back of your spoon, your hands, or even another flat object to compact it as much as possible.

    6.  **Chill and set:** Place the mold in the refrigerator for at least 4-6 hours, or preferably overnight, to allow the flock block to harden completely. For an even firmer block, you can place it in the freezer for a few hours.

    7.  **Remove and serve:** Once completely set, carefully lift the flock block out of the mold using the parchment paper overhang. Remove the parchment paper.

    8.  **Hang or place:** You can place the flock block directly on the ground in your duck run, or you can drill a hole through it (after it’s set) and hang it using a sturdy string or chain for your ducks to peck at.

    **Tips for Success:**

      * **Consistency is key:** The mixture needs to be firm enough to hold its shape once set. If it seems too dry, add a little more binder. If it’s too wet, add a bit more dry grain.

      * **Storage:** Store any unused portions of the flock block in an airtight container in the refrigerator to keep it fresh.

      * **Introduce gradually:** Some ducks might be wary of new things. Introduce the flock block slowly and observe their reaction.

      * **Supplement, don’t replace:** A flock block is a treat and a supplement, not a replacement for their regular balanced duck feed.

  • several management factors play a crucial role. Based on the information found, here are key areas to focus on:

    **1. Nutrition:**

      * Provide good quality, fresh feed with proper nutrient levels. Avoid feed with molds or insect damage.

      * Ensure the proper quantity of feed. For maximum production, ducks need limited feed from 3 weeks until they are laying well to prevent them from becoming overweight, which can negatively impact egg production, fertility, and hatchability. Gradually increase feed as day length increases (see lighting below).

      * Once they are laying at about 40% production, you can start giving them as much as they want to eat, ideally cleaning up their feed daily but having it available most of the day.

      * If raising ducks in the spring, they might start laying eggs sooner, resulting in smaller eggs. Reducing feed levels can help prevent more ducks from starting early egg production. Early lay doesn’t affect their health or longevity.

    **2. Water:**

      * Provide good, clean water. While ducks can tolerate less-than-ideal water, it doesn’t promote excellent egg production.

      * Contrary to popular belief, swimming water isn’t necessary for them to prosper, but if you can manage the dirty water that results from swimming, it can increase fertility.

    **3. Lighting:**

      * Proper lighting is essential. An increasing day length (January – June) brings sexually mature ducks into egg production, while a decreasing day length (July-December) slows or stops it.

      * To maintain egg production, supplement natural light with artificial light in the morning and evening to provide a total of 17 hours of light per day for laying ducks.

      * Once birds are 20-23 weeks old (smaller breeds at 20, larger at 23), gradually increase day length using artificial light, ideally with a time clock. Start by adding about one hour to the natural day length, then add another 45 minutes each week until you reach 17 hours of light. This allows for seven hours of darkness.

    **4. Lack of Stress:**

      * Ducks thrive on routine. Maintain consistency in their daily schedule, feeding times, egg collection, and environment. They can get used to almost anything if it happens regularly, but changes in diet, bedding, or routine can cause production problems.

    **5. Broodstock Quality and Male:Female Ratio:**

      * Fertility is affected by the quality of your breeding stock. Use breeds with good genetic characteristics at optimal ages.

      * The male:female ratio is important. For Muscovy ducks, a ratio of one drake to five ducks is commonly used, although ratios of one to four or even one to six (if males are scarce) have been used satisfactorily. Larger ratios (1:4.3 to 1:10) can significantly reduce egg fertility.

    **6. Environmental Temperature:**

      * High environmental temperatures above the optimal range for thermal comfort can negatively impact productive performance and fertility. Heat stress can decrease germ cells, ovular release, fertilization, embryo survival, and sperm quality. Fertility tends to be higher in cooler months compared to summer.

    **7. Storage Time:**

      * The time eggs are stored before incubation significantly affects fertility, hatchability, and early embryo mortality. Fertility decreases in duck eggs stored for more than six days before incubation.

    **8. Housing System:**

      * The housing system can influence fertility. Systems that allow for mass mating and provide access to swimming can significantly increase fertility, as ducks are waterfowl and prefer to mate in water. Egg weight can also improve fertility, and water access can positively affect egg weight and, consequently, fertility.

    By carefully managing these factors, you can create an environment that encourages your Muscovy ducks to produce more fertile eggs.

  • **Step 1: Planning and Design**

      * **Determine Flock Size:** Plan the size of your shelter based on the number of ducks you have. A minimum of 4 square feet per duck is recommended if they are only confined at night; 12-15 square feet per duck is advisable if they are confined during the day. For large breeds, aim for 5 square feet per duck.

      * **Location:** Choose a well-drained, elevated area to prevent flooding. Proximity to your home can deter predators and make feeding and cleaning easier.

      * **Key Features:** Your duck shelter needs to be:

          * **Easy to Clean:** Ducks produce a lot of messy, wet droppings. Consider materials like vinyl or linoleum for the floor and lower walls that can be easily swept or hosed out.

          * **Movable (Optional):** If you want the flexibility to move your shelter, consider building it on a platform of pallets.

          * **Ventilated:** Proper airflow is crucial to prevent moisture buildup and respiratory issues from ammonia levels. Include windows, vents, or leave gaps at the top.

          * **Predator-Proof:** This is paramount. Ducks are vulnerable to raccoons, foxes, and birds of prey.

          * **Adequate Door Size:** Ducks are large and somewhat awkward on land, so a door about 14 inches wide and 12-14 inches tall is recommended. The house should be on the ground or have a low ramp, potentially with traction strips for wet, webbed feet.

          * **Human Access:** Don’t forget to include a large, drop-down access door or a hinged back wall for easy cleaning and egg collection.

      * **Materials:** You can often use scrap wood, pallets, and leftover roofing materials to keep costs down. Essential materials include:

          * Pressure-treated lumber or 2x4s for the frame.

          * Plywood sheets for walls and floor.

          * Hardware cloth (½-inch mesh) for predator-proofing and ventilation. Avoid chicken wire as it’s weak against predators.

          * Roofing materials (corrugated plastic, asphalt panels, shingles, or metal).

          * Hinges, latches, and screws.

          * Vinyl tile or linoleum for the floor (optional but recommended for cleaning).

          * Wood shavings or straw for bedding.

    **Step 2: Preparing the Site**

      * Clear any vegetation and debris from your chosen location.

      * Level the ground to ensure the shelter’s stability. You can use cinder blocks, cement bricks, or stones to help with leveling.

    **Step 3: Building the Base and Floor**

      * **Construct a Frame:** Create a sturdy frame using 2×4 lumber.

      * **Elevate the Base (Optional but Recommended):** Elevate the base on concrete blocks or pallets to prevent moisture damage and provide a shady lounging spot for your ducks.

      * **Attach Flooring:** Secure plywood sheets to the frame for the floor, ensuring it is sturdy and smooth.

      * **Install Flooring Material (Optional):** For easy cleaning, lay down peel-and-stick vinyl tiles or a layer of linoleum on the floor and about 1 foot up each wall. Secure it with a staple gun. Drill drainage holes in the front corners of the floor if you plan to hose it out.

    **Step 4: Constructing Walls and Roof**

      * **Erect Wall Frames:** Build wall frames, incorporating openings for doors and windows.

      * **Sheathe Walls:** Attach plywood or siding to the wall frames. If using scrap wood, fill gaps with exterior caulking to prevent drafts.

      * **Ventilation:** This is critical.

          * Leave gaps at the top of the walls or below the roofline for continuous airflow.

          * Attach hardware cloth over roof openings or cut-out sections of walls for ventilation while keeping predators out.

          * Consider installing windows with mesh screens.

      * **Design a Sloped Roof:** Create a sloped roof to facilitate water runoff.

      * **Install Roofing Material:** Attach your chosen roofing material (corrugated plastic, asphalt panels, shingles, or metal), ensuring it is weather-resistant and covers the ventilation openings. An overhang can create a small porch.

    **Step 5: Installing Doors and Windows**

      * **Duck Door:** Cut an opening for the duck door (around 14 inches wide and 12-14 inches tall). Build a low ramp if the shelter is elevated.

      * **Human Access Door:** Create a large access door, ideally on one entire side or the back of the house, that swings open completely or drops down for easy cleaning and egg collection. Attach with heavy hinges and secure with latches.

      * **Windows (Optional):** If adding windows, ensure they are covered with hardware cloth to keep pests out while allowing ventilation.

    **Step 6: Finishing Touches and Predator-Proofing**

      * **Predator Proofing:**

          * Reinforce the coop with sturdy materials.

          * Bury wire mesh (hardware cloth is best) around the perimeter of the run at least 2 feet deep to prevent digging predators.

          * Install secure locks on all doors.

      * **Bedding:** Fill the house with plenty of straw or wood shavings for your ducks to snuggle into and make nests. Provide 4-6 inches of wood shavings, as ducks do not carry nesting materials. Avoid sawdust as it can suffocate ducklings and holds moisture.

      * **Paint/Sealant (Optional):** If using plywood or other lumber, consider painting or sealing the exterior with a non-toxic wood preserver or earth-tone paint to extend its life, but do not apply finish inside the box.

      * **Winterizing (Optional):** In colder climates, you can line the inside of the coop with contractor plastic to prevent biting winds. Extra straw in the winter also helps keep them warm.

    Remember that you can always build in stages and make improvements over time.

  • Muscovy ducks are unique and rewarding birds to raise, known for their quiet nature, excellent meat production, and natural pest control abilities. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to successfully raise a healthy and happy flock of Muscovies.

    **Step 1: Planning and Preparation**

      * **Research and Regulations:** Before bringing home ducks, research local zoning laws and regulations regarding poultry. Some areas have restrictions on the number or type of birds you can keep.

      * **Purpose:** Determine why you want to raise Muscovies. Is it for meat, eggs, pest control, or simply as pets? This will influence your decisions on breed lines and flock size.

      * **Space Requirements:** Muscovies need space. Aim for at least 10-15 square feet per duck in their coop or enclosure, and ideally much more for foraging. They are not prone to ranging far, but they appreciate space.

      * **Shelter:** Provide a secure, predator-proof shelter that offers protection from the elements. This can be a shed, a dedicated duck house, or even a modified dog kennel. Ensure good ventilation to prevent respiratory issues.

      * **Water Source:** Ducks need constant access to clean water for drinking, bathing, and cleaning their nasal passages. A large, shallow pan, a kiddie pool, or a dedicated duck pond are all suitable options. Change the water daily to prevent bacterial growth.

      * **Feeding:** Decide on a feeding strategy. You’ll need a suitable duck feed (not chicken feed, as it can be too high in protein for ducklings), supplements, and grit.

    **Step 2: Acquiring Your Ducks**

      * **Ducklings or Adults:** You can start with day-old ducklings or acquire juvenile/adult ducks. Ducklings are more fragile and require more care, but you can imprint on them. Adult ducks are more resilient but may take longer to acclimate to a new environment.

      * **Reputable Breeder:** Purchase from a reputable breeder or hatchery to ensure healthy, well-bred birds. Ask about their breeding practices and health guarantees.

      * **Sexing:** If you’re buying ducklings, consider if you want a specific male-to-female ratio. Muscovies are relatively easy to sex as they mature, but day-old ducklings are harder.

    **Step 3: Duckling Care (if starting with ducklings)**

      * **Brooder Setup:**

          * **Container:** A large plastic tote, a cardboard box (with caution for fire hazard), or a designated brooder. Ensure it’s large enough for the ducklings to move around freely.

          * **Bedding:** Pine shavings (avoid cedar, which can be toxic), straw, or old towels. Change bedding frequently to keep it dry and clean.

          * **Heat Lamp:** A 250-watt red heat lamp is essential for warmth. Start with the lamp about 18-24 inches above the ducklings, adjusting as needed based on their behavior. If they huddle together, they’re too cold; if they spread out and pant, they’re too hot. The ideal temperature for day-old ducklings is around 90-95°F (32-35°C), decreasing by 5°F (2.8°C) each week until they are fully feathered (around 5-6 weeks).

          * **Food and Water:** Provide a non-medicated duck starter feed (20-22% protein) in a shallow feeder. Use a chick fount or a shallow dish with marbles to prevent drowning in the water.

      * **Cleanliness:** Maintain impeccable hygiene in the brooder. Change food and water daily, and replace bedding as soon as it becomes soiled.

      * **Pasture Access:** Once ducklings are around 3-4 weeks old and the weather is warm enough, you can start introducing them to short periods of supervised outdoor time in a secure enclosure.

    **Step 4: Housing and Enclosure**

      * **Coop/Shelter:**

          * **Predator Proofing:** This is crucial. Use strong wire mesh (hardware cloth is best) to prevent access by raccoons, foxes, coyotes, and even large birds of prey. Bury wire around the perimeter to prevent digging.

          * **Ventilation:** Good airflow is important to prevent respiratory issues.

          * **Bedding:** Use straw or pine shavings for bedding inside the coop. Clean out regularly.

          * **Nesting Boxes:** Muscovies prefer to make their own nests, often in secluded spots. You can provide large, open nesting boxes if desired, but they may not use them.

      * **Outdoor Run/Pen:**

          * **Fencing:** A 3-4 foot high fence is generally sufficient to contain Muscovies, as they are not strong flyers, especially after their first molt. However, if you have concerns about predators, a fully enclosed run is best.

          * **Foraging Area:** Allow access to grass and natural vegetation for foraging, which is a natural behavior for ducks and helps supplement their diet.

          * **Shade:** Provide shaded areas for protection from the sun.

    **Step 5: Feeding and Nutrition**

      * **Duck Feed:**

          * **Starter (0-3 weeks):** Non-medicated duck starter with 20-22% protein.

          * **Grower (3-16 weeks):** Non-medicated duck grower with 16-18% protein.

          * **Layer (16+ weeks, if laying eggs):** Non-medicated duck layer feed with 16-18% protein and added calcium.

          * **Maintenance (adults not laying):** 14-16% protein maintenance feed.

      * **Grit:** Provide insoluble grit (small stones or sand) in a separate container. Ducks need grit to help grind down their food in their gizzard.

      * **Supplements:** Offer oyster shell or crushed eggshells as a calcium supplement for laying ducks.

      * **Treats:** Offer treats in moderation, such as leafy greens, vegetables, fruit, or unsalted scratch grains. Avoid bread, as it offers little nutritional value.

      * **Water:** Always provide fresh, clean water in a container deep enough for them to submerge their heads and clean their nostrils.

    **Step 6: Health and Management**

      * **Daily Checks:** Observe your ducks daily for any signs of illness, such as lethargy, changes in appetite, nasal discharge, limping, or abnormal droppings.

      * **Cleanliness:** Regularly clean their water source, feeders, and coop. A clean environment is key to preventing disease.

      * **Parasite Control:** Keep an eye out for external parasites like mites and lice. Dusting with food-grade diatomaceous earth can help.

      * **Wing Clipping (Optional):** Muscovies can fly, especially younger birds. If you want to prevent them from flying away, you can clip one wing’s primary feathers. This is a painless procedure if done correctly.

      * **Handling:** Handle your ducks gently and regularly from a young age to make them more comfortable with human interaction.

      * **Predator Awareness:** Be vigilant about predators. Secure your coop and run, and consider adding predator deterrents like motion-activated lights or guard animals (if appropriate).

      * **Molting:** Ducks will molt annually, typically in late summer or fall, replacing old feathers with new ones. During this time, they may reduce egg production and appear a bit scruffy. Ensure they have adequate protein during this period.

    **Step 7: Reproduction and Incubation (if desired)**

      * **Mating:** Muscovies breed readily. One drake (male) can service several hens (females).

      * **Nesting:** Hens will find a secluded spot to lay their eggs. They are excellent mothers and will often go broody.

      * **Incubation:** Natural incubation by the hen is ideal. If you choose to artificial incubation, you’ll need an incubator and precise temperature and humidity control. Muscovy eggs take approximately 35 days to hatch.

      * **Care of Ducklings with Mother:** If the hen hatches ducklings, she will care for them. Ensure they have access to water in a shallow dish they can’t drown in, and a duckling-appropriate feed.

    **Step 8: Meat Production (if applicable)**

      * **Butchering Age:** Muscovies are typically ready for processing between 12-16 weeks for a good meat yield. Drakes grow larger than hens.

      * **Processing:** You can process them yourself if you have the knowledge and equipment, or take them to a USDA-approved poultry processor.

    **Common Muscovy Duck Quirks and Benefits:**

      * **Quiet Nature:** Unlike other duck breeds, Muscovies are very quiet, primarily communicating with hisses and soft trills rather than loud quacks.

      * **Pest Control:** They are excellent foragers and will actively hunt and eat insects, slugs, snails, and even small rodents.

      * **Lean Meat:** Muscovy meat is lean, dark, and has a rich, gamey flavor often compared to veal or roast beef.

      * **Good Mothers:** Muscovy hens are known for being exceptionally broody and attentive mothers.

      * **Unique Appearance:** They have distinctive red caruncles